If you have ever walked the streets of Marseille, I’m sure you must have noticed the dog poops so generously sprinkled on the sidewalks. Chances are you have even stepped in one, subsequently smearing it on the pavement for the next few meters trying to get rid of it. Am I close? However, this shouldn’t deter you from visiting, or loving, the city. Au contraire!

Although never yet coming into close contact with one, the many dog poops have become a significant part of what I appreciate about the city. Let me tell you why.

To be honest, in the beginning I felt a slight frustration. Having to constantly look down and step over piles and smears taking up space on the sometimes-tiny sidewalks was a little annoying. The steaming and stinking can also be a little so-so.

Then the questions started emerging. As someone who is deeply invested in all things community, I found myself wondering what the dog poops was telling me about the Marseille community. Why is seemingly no one picking up their dog’s deposits? Is everyone just okay with it? – even all the people whom I see so vigorously trying to get the poop off their shoes? Is there no system in place for how to deal with the poops? Like other places where little bags are sold to dog owners, signs are reminding to pick up, and so on. Is this something people talk about or is it simply one of those minor annoyances that we really don’t give any attention to?

Pausing the poop reflections for a minute to tell you about another thing I’ve noticed in Marseille.

Marseille, A City of Human Contact

When strolling the neighborhoods of the city, people you pass on the street will look you in the eyes, they will say Bonjour, and often they will even smile. In my opinion, this is remarkable for a city the size of Marseille. With more than 800.000 citizens it’s comparable to Copenhagen, but what a difference! Don’t get me wrong, I love Copenhagen, but connecting with people on the street can be pretty difficult. Of course, if you walk around the shopping streets of the Vieux-Port or Opéra area, don’t expect a lot of interaction with your fellow shoppers. However, you might still receive a little warmth from the local shop owner if you are open to it – it’s a reciprocal thing, so you need to contribute yourself. As a minimum, you should always say bonjour or bonsoir when entering any kind of place. Basics are important.

Another thing to notice, Marseille is gorgeous! There are so many interesting things to discover; the details of the old buildings, the street art, the laundry hanging from a window. A treat for greedy eyes. Add the possibility of a smile and a greeting, you really should lift your gaze and meet the world around you.

However, circling back to the dog poops, you might want to look down as well.

This is where the challenge arises.

How can you admire and take part in all the beauty and connection around you while constantly looking down to avoid stepping in s**t? Because you don’t want to miss out. Not even a little. But you really don’t want poopy shoes either. So.. HOW? It’s actually not the first time I’ve asked myself this exact question, which makes me think that other people might have asked themselves this question as well. The question first occurred years ago in Varanasi, India and the poop in question was, naturally, cow poop. Different city, different poop, same question.  

Determined to figure out this conundrum I entered a new phase of my poop-catalyzed process; the practicing phase. Around Marseille I ventured, hesitantly at first but soon moving like a ninja, swiftly navigating the minefield while keeping up conversation with my travel partner, and never missing a friendly comment or surprising detail. Zen travel; complete awareness of the surrounding world. At least that’s the short version. The long version includes a bit more stumbling and frustration as well as lengthy reflections on not changing circumstances but instead your reaction to them, the trainability of the mind and the endless nature of awareness.

Both versions are concluded with big admiration for this ancient port city so ready to bombard your senses and warm your heart. After spending just a few weeks here, my fascination-from-afar has turned into a full-blown love.

Circling back to the question of what poops in the street says about a community – maybe it says something about what is valued in that community. Sure, ideally we’d have it all but if you have to choose, would you rather have clean streets and limited human connection or would you prefer lots of connection with the risk of a little poop on your shoes? Maybe we don’t have the capacity or the resources to ensure perfection at all times, so we prioritize. Personally, I’ll take the connection, and I have even come to appreciate the dog poop as a catalyst for my expanded awareness.

In Marseille as in life, look up but also look down.